Pinacoteca de São Paulo (São Paulo Art Gallery)

Brazilian culture is multi-ethnic, incredibly rich and highly diverse, evident not only in the diversity of its people, but also in our different accents, cuisine, traditions and festivals, as well as in our musical and cultural output. And one cannot talk about art and culture without mentioning the Pinacoteca de São Paulo.

São Paulo is often referred to as a 'global city' because it embraces diverse cultures and allows them to coexist in harmony. As well as being Brazil's most populous city, the Happy City Index (2026), an international index that assesses cities to identify those offering the best quality of life, ranked São Paulo 161st, placing it not only as Brazil's "happiest city" but also as Latin America's.

And speaking of happiness, it's impossible not to be happy when spending an afternoon (perhaps the whole day?) at the Pinacoteca de São Paulo!

The Pina, as it is affectionately known, comprises three adjacent buildings, which makes it all the more appealing because, with a single ticket (valid for the same day), visitors can explore all three venues by moving between them: Pina Luz (the main building) focuses on the Brazilian collection and houses the permanent collection as well as the larger temporary exhibitions; Pina Estação is home to the Memorial da Resistência, the documentation centres and temporary exhibitions; and Pina Contemporânea, as the name suggests, focuses on contemporary art exhibitions, making excellent use of the spacious architecture and natural light.

Walking through the Pina and exploring its vast collection (many works encourage public interaction, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the various ways of experiencing and feeling art!) is like taking a stroll through Brazil's history; it's about learning a little more about who we are and what we're like. A special highlight is the Visual Arts Library (formerly the Walter Wey Library), which has existed since 1959 and houses a wide range of specialist titles on Brazilian art: catalogues, books, special collections, leaflets, advertising materials, and magazine and newspaper clippings; it is a veritable compendium of our history, over the years, from an artistic and cultural production perspective — I imagine librarians and historians must love it!

Another great thing about visiting the Pina is that it's right opposite Estação da Luz, perhaps the most important (or best-known?) railway station in São Paulo. This station provides access to another incredible place: the Museu da Língua Portuguesa (Museum of the Portuguese Language)! I haven't been to either of them, but I was captivated just by admiring them whilst waiting for my Uber to arrive. The building is imposing and very inviting, by the way!

To make the most of your day at the Pinacoteca de São Paulo, I suggest you take your time and wear comfortable shoes (if you have reduced mobility or are accompanying someone), as you'll be doing a fair bit of walking. If you carry bags, there are lockers available for medium-sized bags, small backpacks and umbrellas, for example, upon presentation of your ticket and subject to availability.

Accessibility in the Pina buildings is fantastic! Although there is a flight of steps at the entrance, there is a side entrance with a ramp. There are very spacious central lifts providing access to all areas, and the toilet facilities are also excellent, not only in terms of accessibility but also in terms of cleanliness. I noticed that there are wheelchairs available for people with reduced mobility and/or who are unable to walk long distances to borrow.

The most challenging aspect in terms of accessibility is at Parque da Luz (or Jardim da Luz), an extension of the Pinacoteca that connects Pina Luz and Pina Contemporânea. As it is an open-air space blending nature with sculptures and works of art, tree roots and grass make the path steeper and more difficult, particularly for people in manual wheelchairs. I couldn't access the whole of it, but I explored a good part of it, and it was worth every second: the sense of peace is unrivalled!

On the ground floor, next to the main entrance to Pina, there is a small shop stocked with books, exhibition catalogues and souvenirs to remember your visit and take home as gifts for family and friends: T-shirts, tote bags, caps, key rings, postcards, diaries, pens, mugs and personalized umbrellas, as well as other exclusive collectables. No ticket is required to access the shop and there is an access ramp with non-slip rubber at the entrance. The shop is small but allows for good movement, although the checkout counter is too high. Another point to note is that the ground in front of the shop is covered in small stones, which makes the wheelchair heavier for those using a manual wheelchair (like me!), as well as causing a bit of a jolt; something that can be a bit of a nuisance for those living with chronic pain (me too, lol).

Opposite the little shop — which you can also enter without a ticket — is Fitó Café, a Brazilian restaurant with a northeastern Brazilian influence, run by chef Cafira Foz. It serves a variety of drinks, brunch, lunch and delicious snacks; you can view the menu here and here. The tables are in high demand, and the wait is relatively long, but you can use the side area to sit down and enjoy some appetizers until a table becomes available. The venue is accessible, the table height is good, and as it is open-air (with a canopy in case of rain), I suggest avoiding times such as midday and 3 pm, as it gets hotter due to the intense sun — although this isn't really a problem, as there are plenty of trees around, which helps with ventilation, and the Pina building provides shade for all the tables and chairs. The staff are friendly and helpful, and if I may make a recommendation, be sure to try the tapioca cheese bites served with pepper jelly and pineapple: they're perfect!

If you visit the city of São Paulo, a visit to the Pinacoteca is a must! The three buildings not only preserve our history, but also provide access to memory, culture and art.